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January 26 2017

Stephen TANZER, 2015 Vintage


(an approximation of the final blend, including the young vines): Healthy dark red. Superb soil-driven nose combines raspberry, musky rocky minerality, roast coffee and subtle floral lift. Large-scaled but fresh and gripping; more juicy than chewy in texture, with its very concentrated yet delicate berry fruit complemented but not overshadowed by strong soil tones. Finishes with serious but suave tannins that arrive late and an exhilarating light touch. (Incidentally, I also tasted a few of this wine's components. My favorite was from old vines planted in the upper part of the Clos on white soil rich in soft marl and rocks. This sample displayed ineffable rose petal lift to its aromas of raspberry and bacon fat, and its utterly suave, seamless, perfumed palate reminded me a bit of a great Côte-Rôtie from the Côte Blonde. Another sample from very old vines planted in the bottom part of the Clos on a plate of limestone featuring very shallow topsoil combined terrific thrust and delicacy, a silky texture and a spherical quality that reminded me of Romanée-Conti. The wine's tannic touch was wonderfully refined. The young-vines component of Clos de Tart will contribute raspberry, spice and chocolate notes to the ultimate assemblage. While this sample seemed a bit facile--and not at the level of the other components--it will no doubt add an element of juiciness to the final blend.)