Neil BECKETT, Burgundy 2018
CLOS DE TART GRAND CRU MONOPOLE
A cuvée produced from young vines that have been interplanted to replace dead vines within the Clos—and which the domaine decided to harvest and vinify separately this year—the 2018 Morey-Saint-Denis offers up a ripe bouquet of jammy berry fruit, cassis and creamy new oak. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, fleshy and rich, with powdery tannins and a vanillin-inflected finish. While it's creditably made in a modernist idiom, one can see why it was declassified.